I finally made it to Saundersfoot after a bit of a faff on the drive down from Carmarthen—nothing major, just a rogue seagull deciding my windscreen needed a fresh coat of paint right as I turned off the A478. Laughing it off with a quick stop at the local garage for a wipe-down, I was buzzing to check into Epic Spa (Pet), this cracking pet-friendly cottage I'd booked for a three-day jaunt. It's tucked away in the heart of Saundersfoot, close enough to the beach that you can practically smell the sea air from the doorstep, and as a dog owner, the fact it welcomes my soppy Labrador, Rufus, was the clincher.

Pulling up on that first afternoon, the sun was doing its best impression of a proper summer day—blue skies, not a cloud in sight. First impressions? Bloody brilliant. The cottage is one of those cosy stone jobbies with a modern twist: spa vibes inside with a private hot tub bubbling away in the garden, fairy lights strung up for that evening glow, and a telly bigger than my flat's kitchen. Rufus went mental sniffing every corner while I dumped the bags and cracked open a cold one from the well-stocked welcome hamper. But let's be real, I wasn't here to lounge (much)—Saundersfoot's calling card is its coastal paths, and with the weather playing nice, I was itching for a hike.

We headed straight out for the Saundersfoot to Amroth circular, a classic 5-mile clifftop ramble along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It's right on the doorstep, starting from the harbour where fishing boats bobbed gently and families were paddling in the shallows. The views hit you like a tonic—rugged cliffs plunging into turquoise water, wildflowers nodding in the breeze, and gulls wheeling overhead. Rufus was in heaven, charging ahead on his lead, tail wagging like a windscreen wiper on full pelt. I felt like a proper explorer, striding out with my OS map app (old school paper version in my backpack, naturally), the sun warming my face as we crested the headland. Light humour in the moment: halfway up the first incline, Rufus spotted a rabbit and nearly yanked my arm off—turns out, this "epic" hike was more like a comedy drag race with a daft dog.

By late afternoon, we'd looped back via the beach, sandy paws and all, and I dunked in the hot tub as a reward. Pure bliss, steam rising as the sun dipped low. But oh, British weather—never trust it further than you can throw it. Next morning, day two dawned with a vengeance: lashing rain and a wind that could strip paint. Plans for another coastal yomp to Wiseman's Bridge? Scrubbed. Instead, we pivoted to a shorter inland stroll through the wooded valleys behind Saundersfoot, dodging puddles the size of small lakes. The paths turned into muddy squelches, Rufus emerging looking like a chocolate lab, and me slipping arse-over-tit on a slick incline—cue gentle self-reflection amid the drizzle. Here I was, middle-aged and mud-splattered, realising these weather-whipped walks are what make Wales magic. No Instagram perfection, just raw, changeable beauty that forces you to adapt, laugh it off, and appreciate the quiet after the storm.

Afternoon brought a tease of blue sky, so we nipped out for a quick beach circuit along the Coppet Hall sands—waves crashing, Rufus chasing foam like it was his job. But by evening, fog rolled in thick as pea soup, turning our planned sunset cliff walk into a cosy night in with the wood burner roaring. Epic Spa (Pet) shone here: rain pattering on the windows, hot tub steaming defiantly, and that first-impression cosiness wrapping around us like a damp but welcoming hug. Those hikes, thwarted and triumphant, really set the tone—Saundersfoot's paths are moody mistresses, but they keep you coming back for more. Can't wait for round two.