I’ll never forget the drive to our 2 Bed Lodge in Canaston Bridge – a proper Pembrokeshire adventure that started with me forgetting to pack my walking boots. There we were, me and my mate Dave, bombing down the A40 from Carmarthen in our battered old Fiesta, windows down, singing along to some dodgy 90s indie playlist. About ten miles out, just past Narberth, I glance down and spot my trainers looking more suited to the pub than a coastal hike. “Brilliant,” I mutter, pulling over at a layby for a quick shoe swap from the boot. Dave’s in stitches: “Mate, you’ve turned up for a ramble in flip-flops!” Classic me – always one step behind, literally.

We rolled into Canaston Bridge by early afternoon, the lodge tucked away in that peaceful spot near the Eastern Cleddau River, all rustic charm with its wooden cladding and those big windows framing the rolling fields. First impressions? Absolute bliss. It’s compact but cosy, two bedrooms kitted out with fluffy duvets, a little kitchen that screamed “whip up a brew and plan your walks,” and a lounge with a wood burner begging for a chilly evening. Stepping inside felt like slipping into a warm hug after the drive – proper home from home. The owner had left fresh milk and biscuits, which sorted us right out. Dave claimed the master with the en-suite, cheeky sod, while I bagged the twin with river views. From the decking outside, you could hear the gentle rush of the water and spot herons flapping about. Perfect base for three days of pounding the paths.

Day one, the weather was playing nice – bright blue skies, a gentle breeze off the coast. We laced up (me in borrowed wellies from the lodge’s outdoor cupboard, phew) and headed straight for the Pembrokeshire Coast Path trail that snakes nearby, just a short stroll from the door. It’s only a couple of miles to the bridges at Canaston, but blimey, those hills give you a proper leg workout. We clambered over stiles, dodged sheep poo, and paused for selfies with the estuary sparkling below. The air was that fresh, salty tang you only get in Wales – invigorating, like nature’s espresso. Lunch was pasties from the village shop, scoffed on a bench overlooking the water. I felt a right twit for my boot blunder earlier; here I was, striding like a pro, pondering how these simple hikes recharge the soul more than any gym session ever could. Work stress? What work stress?

Come evening, the British weather decided to flex. Clouds rolled in thick as fog off the Irish Sea, and by tea time it was chucking it down – proper horizontal rain that turned the paths to mudslides. Our grand plan for a sunset stroll to the woods near Jeffreyston? Scrubbed. Instead, we hunkered down in the lodge, firing up the wood burner and cracking open a couple of local Pembrokeshire ales. Dave reckoned it was “character building,” but I caught him eyeing the telly. Laughing about it later, I reflected on how these curveballs are the real magic of a Welsh getaway. You adapt, you laugh, and suddenly you’re grateful for the cosiness of a lodge that feels like a secret hideout.

Day two dawned drizzly, so we pivoted to the flatter riverside paths along the Cleddau, waterproofs on, hoods up. The mud was epic – I slipped arse-over-tit into a puddle at one point, emerging like a swamp monster while Dave howled. “You’re a walking health and safety violation!” he gasped. We pushed on, spotting otters darting in the shallows and buzzards wheeling overhead. By midday, the sun peeked out, turning the whole scene golden – classic Pembrokeshire roulette. That evening, rain lashing the windows again, we cooked a curry in the kitchen, steaming up the glass as we toasted our soggy triumphs.

Third day, a cheeky mix of sun and showers, but we nailed a loop back towards Canaston Bridge, clocking five miles through meadows buzzing with wildlife. The weather’s whims kept us on our toes, but that’s the joy of it – no two hikes the same. Leaving felt bittersweet; that lodge had us hooked with its trailside perch and weather-proof charm. If you’re after a Pembrokeshire escape that’s all about boots, breezes and the odd downpour, this is your spot. Can’t wait to go back.