I’ll never forget the drive to Middle Thorne last autumn – that golden stretch of late October when Devon’s hedgerows are ablaze with fiery reds and golds, and the air has that crisp bite that makes you pull your scarf a bit tighter. I’d set off from Braunton early that Friday morning, fancying a leisurely 20-minute scoot down those winding lanes to Great Field Lodges, but wouldn’t you know it, I took a wrong turn at the first roundabout and ended up looping back past the same ruddy tractor twice. Classic me – the sat-nav lady’s sighs were practically audible. Still, it gave me extra time to soak in the season’s magic: leaves swirling like confetti in the breeze, and the faint scent of woodsmoke drifting from chimneys, promising cosy nights ahead.

Pulling up to Middle Thorne just before lunch, I was gobsmacked by how perfectly it slotted into the autumnal scene. Tucked amid the lodges on this peaceful site, it’s a proper chocolate-box hot tub lodge – timber-clad, with a veranda that begged for a cuppa while watching the world go amber. The sun was low and hazy, casting long shadows over the surrounding fields, where the grass still clung to a bit of green but was dotted with those telltale puddles from overnight rain. Autumn in North Devon doesn’t mess about; one minute it’s balmy enough for a light jacket, the next it’s lashing down, turning everything into a glossy, invigorating postcard.

Stepping inside was like slipping into a warm hug. The open-plan living space smelled faintly of fresh pine and was kitted out just right for the cooler months – a wood-burning stove already laid with kindling (bless the hosts), plush sofas piled with tartan blankets, and underfloor heating that hummed to life the second I flicked the switch. I dumped my bags and fired up the kettle, grinning at the view from the big windows: rolling fields fading into misty moorland, with Saunton Sands just a whisper away on the horizon. The hot tub on the private deck was steaming gently in the chill, bubbles inviting under that overcast sky. I couldn’t resist a quick dip later, once the initial unpacking frenzy subsided – talk about luxury, neck-deep in warm water while crunchy leaves skittered across the deck in the wind. Bloody brilliant, even if I did emerge looking like a prune with chattering teeth.

First impressions? Middle Thorne nailed that autumnal escape vibe spot on. Lunch was a simple affair – I rustled up cheese on toast using the well-stocked kitchen (proper Devon clotted cream in the fridge, cheeky treat), munching at the dining table while rain pattered on the roof like gentle applause. It was the sort of weather that kept me indoors, which suited perfectly; I cracked open a book by the stove, flames crackling as dusk crept in early, painting the room in flickering orange. Outside, the lodges’ grounds looked enchanting – fairy lights twinkling along the paths as fellow guests ambled by with dogs shaking off the damp, and the air thick with that earthy, fallen-leaf aroma. No need for grand plans; the season did the heavy lifting, wrapping everything in this mellow, introspective glow.

Sitting there that first evening, mug of tea in hand, I had a quiet moment of reflection. Life back home’s been a whirlwind – deadlines, bustle, the usual palaver – but here, with the wind whispering through the trees and the hot tub calling for round two, I felt properly grounded. Autumn at Middle Thorne stripped it all back to what matters: simple comforts, nature’s showy display, and a bit of time to breathe. If you’re chasing that same seasonal serenity in Devon, this spot’s a gem. Three days in, and I was already plotting a return next leaf-fall.