I finally made it to Lilac Lodge after a bit of a faff on the drive down from Exeter. The sat-nav decided to have a midlife crisis just past Okehampton, sending me on a detour through some narrow Devon lanes that felt more like goat tracks than roads. I ended up with a smudge of cowpat on my tyre from an enthusiastic herd blocking the way – nothing serious, just the sort of daft mishap that makes you chuckle later over a pint. But blimey, when I pulled up to Roadford Lake Lodges near Lifton, the stress melted away. Lilac Lodge is this cosy little haven, all tucked in among the trees with the lake shimmering just beyond, and my first thought was, "Right, time to raid the fridge and sort out supper."

Unpacking was a doddle – the place comes with everything you need, including a proper farmhouse kitchen that screamed "get cooking." I'd stopped at the local farm shop en route, just a couple of miles back towards Broadwoodwidger, and stocked up on Devon essentials: a slab of proper clotted cream, fresh scones still warm from the oven, and some smoked mackerel from the nearby fishery. No fancy supermarket tat; this was the real deal, straight from the county that does dairy like nowhere else. My first evening kicked off with a bungled attempt at a cream tea – I slathered the cream on first, as any self-respecting Devonian would, but then drowned the scone in jam and ended up with a sticky mess that looked like a crime scene. Still tasted bloody marvellous, washed down with a pot of builder's tea overlooking the lake. Sat there as the sun dipped, feeling a proper twit for my jam faux pas, but it was one of those moments that makes you reflect: life's too short for perfect scones when you've got this view.

Next morning, I wandered over to the lodges' own little café – it's right on site, can't get more local than that. They do a cracking full English: bacon from pigs that probably snorted around here last week, eggs from free-range hens scratching by the water, and black pudding that had that proper peppery kick. I demolished it on the terrace, watching buzzards wheel overhead, and chatted with the owner about the best spots for a post-breakfast pint. He pointed me to The Arundell Arms in Lifton, just a hop down the road – proper pub grub territory. I ambled over mid-morning (alright, early afternoon), and what a gem. Settled in with a pint of Otter Ale, crisp and malty, and plumped for the fish pie: chunks of local white fish in a creamy mash topping, sided with mushy peas that transported me straight back to childhood holidays. The barman reckoned the fish came from Bude, but it's all Devon-sourced, and you could taste the sea in every bite. Light lunch turned into a lazy afternoon, swapping stories with a couple of locals about the lake's trout fishing – though I confessed I'd rather eat 'em than catch 'em.

Back at the lodge, I fancied playing chef again. Nipped to the weekly market in Lifton village – five minutes away, stalls groaning under pasties, fudge, and artisan cheeses. Grabbed a brace of fresh trout from the lake itself (they've got an honesty box setup), some wild garlic from the forager's pitch, and a loaf of sourdough that was still steaming. My culinary masterpiece? Pan-fried trout with a garlic butter sauce, served with crushed new potatoes and a dollop of that clotted cream on the side for pudding. Turned out half decent, though I overdid the butter and it swam like the lake outside. Laughed at myself while eating solo by the woodburner, thinking how these simple meals beat any Michelin-starred nonsense. It's the freshness, innit? Everything within spitting distance, no air miles or faff.

That first full day wrapped with fish and chips from the chippy in the village – proper batter, fat chips, and mushy peas again because why not? Ate them on the lodge deck as dusk fell, the air thick with woodsmoke from neighbours' barbecues. No grand plans, just good nosh and the gentle lap of water. Staying at Lilac Lodge isn't about ticking off sights; it's about savouring Devon's larder, one delicious mishap at a time. Can't wait to go back for more.