A laid-back guide to Norfolk, Suffolk, Cambridgeshire and Essex
If you're anything like me, the word "holiday" immediately conjures up images of overpriced airport queues, questionable airline food, and the nagging suspicion that your suitcase is overweight. But here's a thought: what if your best holiday this year didn't involve a passport at all? Enter East Anglia — that quietly brilliant corner of England that stretches from the Norfolk coast down through Suffolk, across Cambridgeshire and into Essex. It's the kind of place that doesn't shout about itself, which is precisely why it's so special.
The Coast That Time (Almost) Forgot
Let's start with the obvious: the coastline. East Anglia's shores are nothing short of magnificent, and I'm not just saying that because I grew up eating sandy sandwiches on Cromer beach. The Norfolk coast in particular has this almost unfair ability to make you feel like you've stumbled onto a film set. Holkham Beach, with its vast expanse of golden sand backed by pine woods, is the sort of place where you half expect to see a horse galloping across the horizon with a rider in a flowing cape. It's dramatic, it's windswept, and it's utterly gorgeous.
Then there's Wells-next-the-Sea, famous for those candy-coloured beach huts that look like they've been painted by someone having a very good day indeed. The harbour is still very much a working one — you'll see fishing boats unloading their catch while tourists queue up for the freshest crab sandwiches you'll ever taste. Speaking of which, Cromer crab is basically a religion in these parts. Don't leave without trying one. Or three.
Further south, the Suffolk coast has a completely different personality. Aldeburgh is all pebbles and pastel houses and Benjamin Britten associations. Southwold manages to be both refined and slightly eccentric — the pier is home to the famously quirky "Under the Pier Show" featuring genuinely bonkers arcade machines. It's the kind of seaside town where people still wear proper shoes to dinner and the local brewery (Adnams, since you asked) has been keeping everyone cheerfully hydrated since 1872.
More Than Just Sand and Sea
Of course, there's more to East Anglia than beaches. The Norfolk Broads — a network of rivers and lakes that make up Britain's largest protected wetland — are an absolute joy. Hiring a day boat and puttering along at approximately the speed of a leisurely stroll is one of life's great pleasures. You'll pass reed beds rustling in the breeze, spot herons standing like grumpy old men in the shallows, and if you're lucky, catch sight of a kingfisher flashing past in a blur of electric blue.
For the history buffs — and I count myself firmly in this camp — there's enough here to keep you occupied for weeks. Norwich, the region's unofficial capital, is the most complete medieval city in Britain. Wander through the cathedral close, where the Norman cathedral soars above you with the second-tallest spire in England, and you can almost hear the centuries settling around you. The castle, the cobbled lanes of Elm Hill, the independent shops and cafés tucked into ancient buildings — it's all gloriously atmospheric.
And then there's Cambridge. Yes, it's technically in Cambridgeshire rather than the coastal counties, but no article about East Anglia would be complete without mentioning it. Punting along the River Cam past the Backs — those famous college gardens that tumble down to the water's edge — is basically a rite of passage. King's College Chapel will make your jaw drop, even if you think you've seen enough churches to last a lifetime. The city itself is compact enough to explore on foot, stuffed with bookshops, pubs that have been serving ale since Shakespeare's day, and enough cycling students to make you feel distinctly unfit.
Where to Lay Your Head
Now, accommodation. This is where East Anglia really comes into its own, because whatever your vibe — and your budget — you'll find something that fits.
If you're after that classic British seaside experience, Victorian guest houses in Great Yarmouth or Clacton-on-Sea still do a roaring trade. Think floral wallpaper, full English breakfasts that could fuel a small army, and landladies who remember your name and your preference for brown sauce. It's unapologetically nostalgic, and sometimes that's exactly what you want.
Holiday cottages are the real stars of the show here, though. Norfolk and Suffolk are cottage country, and the range is staggering. You can book anything from a tiny romantic bolthole for two (complete with wood burner and a welcome hamper of local cheese) to a sprawling barn conversion that sleeps twelve and has a hot tub in the garden. Many are dog-friendly, which is crucial for those of us who can't imagine a holiday without a muddy-pawed companion. Sykes Cottages and Rural Retreats both have excellent selections across the region, and many properties are tucked away in villages so pretty you'll spend the first half-hour just photographing the church and the village pond.
For something a bit different, glamping has well and truly arrived in East Anglia. Safari tents in Suffolk meadows, treehouses in Cambridgeshire with outdoor baths, converted railway carriages on the Norfolk-Suffolk border — the options are wonderfully inventive. If you fancy yourself a bit of a water baby, houseboats on the Broads offer a genuinely unique experience. Waking up to mist rising off the water and the sound of coots calling is hard to beat.
On the luxury end, North Norfolk has some spectacular boutique hotels. Places like Titchwell Manor or The White Horse at Brancaster Staithe combine serious foodie credentials with coastal views that'll have you reaching for your camera before you've even had coffee. And if you really want to push the boat out, there are country house hotels in Georgian manors where you can pretend you're in a period drama for a weekend.
The Food Scene (Spoiler: It's Good)
I should probably mention the food, because East Anglia has quietly become something of a culinary destination. The coastline means seafood is exceptional — beyond the famous Cromer crab, there are oysters from Mersea Island in Essex, mussels from the River Deben, and fish so fresh it was probably swimming that morning. The Suffolk countryside produces excellent pork and game, and the region's breweries (Adnams in Southwold, Woodforde's in Norfolk) are genuinely world-class.
Farm shops are everywhere, and they're not the twee, overpriced affairs you sometimes find closer to London. These are real working businesses selling produce from the surrounding fields. Pick up a loaf of sourdough, some local cheese, a bottle of apple juice, and you've got the makings of a picnic that'll ruin supermarket sandwiches for you forever.
A Few Practical Thoughts
Getting around East Anglia is straightforward. The train from London Liverpool Street to Norwich takes under two hours, and Cambridge is even closer. Having a car definitely helps if you want to explore the coast properly — many of the best beaches and villages are a bit off the public transport grid — but the main towns are well-connected.
Weather-wise, let's be honest: this is England. But East Anglia is famously the driest region in the UK, and when the sun does come out, those big skies and endless horizons are something else. Pack layers, bring a decent waterproof, and embrace the fact that a slightly overcast day on a Norfolk beach still beats a day at the office.
The best time to visit? Summer is glorious but busy, especially in the school holidays. May, June, and September are the sweet spots — decent weather, lighter crowds, and accommodation that's slightly easier to come by. Spring brings wildflowers to the coastal paths, while autumn turns the countryside into a patchwork of gold and russet. Even winter has its charm — storm-watching from a cosy cottage with a glass of red is a very underrated pastime.
So, Why East Anglia?
I'll put it simply: East Anglia offers that increasingly rare combination of genuine beauty, real character, and a complete absence of pretension. It's not trying to be the Cotswolds or the Lake District. It doesn't need to. It has its own thing going on — a slightly eccentric, deeply charming, quietly spectacular thing — and that's exactly why it works.
Whether you want to build sandcastles with the kids, explore medieval churches, eat your body weight in seafood, or simply sit on a deckchair and watch the North Sea do its thing, you'll find your place here. And chances are, like me, you'll find yourself already planning your return before you've even packed the car to go home.
Sometimes the best holidays are the ones closest to home. East Anglia proves that better than almost anywhere I know.